Trade Fair ReportsTechtextil, Source-it Make Texprocess a Formidable Combo
- Dr. H.K. Sehgal
 The German Engineering Federation (VDMA) invited a select, and yet a representative gathering for a presentation on TEXPROCESS 2011, which is a new leading international trade fair for processing textile and flexible materials. Dr. J.V. Rao, Director NITRA was the Chief Guest. Ms. Darleen Rodrigues, Sales Manager Messe Frankfurt had flown in to India to participate in the presentation. It will make its debut parallel to Techtexil, the international trade fair for technical textiles and non-wovens which is slated to be held in Frankfurt am Main from 24 through 27 May, 2011.
The presentation made by Rajesh Nath, MD, VDMA, India, based at Kolkata highlighted the fact that Texprocess's alliance with Techtexil provided a win-win situation for them and is therefore an ideal platform for exhibitors and visitors. The Texprocess has a focus on the garment industry, particularly on processing and automation technology for textiles, apart from logistics and transport and associated technology. Its extended focus to processing of flexible materials and applications on leather, technical textiles, composites as also on automotive, upholstery, filters and outdoor equipment etc. has only value-added to the usefulness of the event both for exhibitors and business visitors.
The Texprocess is providing international leadership; and added variety of technology by covering CAD and cutting systems, sewing technology, ironing and finishing technology, transport and logistics component and other components like needles etc. As per the information available for the year 2009, Germany ranks third among the supplier countries for sewing technology, preceded by China and Japan, and followed Taiwan, Italy, USA and South Korea. Germany's most important export markets for sewing and garment technology are Turkey, the US, Poland, Italy, China, Hong Kong and India.
It was pointed out that since India is one of the fastest growing economies with lot of potential for further going up the ladder in the export of textiles and garments, this market needs to be given more and deserving attention.
The debut of Texprocess is designed to be a grand success. The preparations for the premiere of Texprocess in Frankfurt am Main from 24 to 27 May 2011 are in full swing with registrations having already been received from numerous international market leaders along all parts of the textile process chain. They include Amann & Sohne, Assyst, Avery Dennison, AVM, Barudan, Brother, Coats, Durkopp Adler, Expert Systemtechnik, Gutermann, Human Solutions, IMA, Juki, KSL, Lectra, Macpi, Madeira, Meyer & Meyer, Organ Needle, Parker Hanifin, Pegasus, Pfaff, PMF-Fortuna, Rotondi, Ferd. Schmetz, Setlog, Tajima, topcut-Bullmer, Update Texware, Transportex International AB, Veit, Xi'an Typicals and Yamato. The conceptual partner of Texprocess is VDMA Garment and Leather Technology, which represents around 90 percent of German companies in the sector, many of them are international market and technology leaders. Texprocess would be held every two years concurrently with Techtextile, International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens.
Messe Frankfurt expects around 500 exhibitors and 25,000 trade visitors to attend Texprocess 2011. Together with Techtextil, this will create a powerful duo of events with around 1,700 exhibitors and 50,000 trade visitors covering all aspects of the textile value chain and offering synergies for visitors and exhibitors of both fairs.
The range of products to be seen at Texprocess is broad and en-compasses fashion design, cutting, preparations, sewing, embroidery, sealing, joining, textile printing, dressing, finishing, IT and logistics.
Texprocess is aimed primarily at the garment-manufacturing (leisure, outdoor, protective and work wear) and textile-processing industries as well as at processors of textile and flexible materials from the automobile aerospace, filter, packaging, furniture industries. Additional trade visitors are expected from the trade, handicrafts, service, training and science sectors.
In addition to the exhibitor presentations, Texprocess will be accompanied by an extensive complementary programme including the Source it! Sourcing platform, the Texprocess Innovation Award, a comprehensive programme of lectures on future-oriented subjects of interest to the sector, e.g., sustainability, traceability and social responsibility, the Network@Texprocess IT market place and a programme designed to promote young people.
On the occasion of Texprocess 2011, Messe Frankfurt will hold a competition for an innovation award, which is open to all exhibitors. The award-winning products will be exhibited at a special show throughout the fair so that visitors will be able to discover genuine innovations at a glance. The Innovation Award underscores the aim of Texprocess to be the international forum for the sector.
Network@Texprocess is Messe Frankfurt's answer to the growing significance of IT solutions in the garment manufacturing, especially with regard to fast fashion, traceability and quality management.
Apart from Texprocess in Frankfurt, Messe Frankfurt is also organising Texprocess Americas (24 to 26 April 2012) in cooperation with SPESA (Sewn Products Equipment & Suppliers of the Americas).
Techtexil, too, Gets Encouraging Response
The current number of registrations for the Techtextil 2011. international trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens, indicates yet another successful fair. By the end of September, already over 85 percent of the area of 2009 edition has been booked. “The mood is good following Techtextil 2009, which set a new record despite the difficult economic climate prevailing at the time”, says Michael Jaenecke, Brand Manager Technical Textiles / Techtextil at Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH.
With ten confirmed registrations for national pavilions from Belgium, China, France, Italy, Canada, Portugal, Spain, Taiwan, the Czech Republic and the USA the number received is already nearly identical with the total for 2009. The national pavilions will be distributed evenly throughout the three exhibition halls.
Symposiums with extensive lecture programme
Techtextil 2011 will be rounded off by a comprehensive conference programme highlighting current, innovative developments. As always, the Techtextil and Avantex Symposiums will be held parallel to the trade fair. The aim of the two symposiums is to generate new impulses for the sectors concerned, to promote interdisciplinary communication and to provide information about new developments and potential applications.
Promotion for students and awards for innovations
As in previous years, the Techtextil and Avantex Innovation Awards will be given in 2011 for outstanding, innovative and unconventional achievements in the fields of research, materials, product development and new technologies. The Student Competition, organised by the international TensilNet association and Techtexil on the subject of `Textile Structures for New Buildings', aims to discover new ideas and concepts for the architecture of the future.
Top Players Book Heavily in Knitting & Hosiery Machinery Zone in ShanghaiTex 2011
 The robust demand from both the international market and the domestic market has accelerated the pace of exhibitors' endeavours for the 15th International Exhibition on Textile Industry (ShanghaiTex 2011), which will be held at Shanghai New International Expo Centre, Pudong, Shanghai during June 14 – 17, 2011.
According to the official statistics, in Jan – June 2010, total export and import value of textile machinery was USD 2.659 billion which increased by 51% compared to the same period last year (2009). Included in it, the exports worth were USD776 million and the imports worth USD1.883 billion, showing year-on-year rise of 38% and 56% respectively.
Tremendous Support From Renowned Worldwide Brands
The exhibition continues to enjoy overwhelming response from exhibitors, especially in the “Knitting & Hosiery Machinery Zone”, which has been fully booked and reserved by renowned industry players: on top are Italy's Santoni, Germany's H. Stoll, Germany's Groz Beckert, Singapore's Falmac Machinery, Conti Complett, Japan's Shima Seiki; established companies such as Nan Sing, Ningbo Yuren have also confirmed their participation.
Apart from the “Knitting & Hosiery Machinery Zone”, other zones have also received positive feedbacks from well-known companies; to name a few, Hong Kong's Fong's, Germany's Thies, Denmark's Danfoss, Germany's Gofront, Italy's Brazzoli would participate in “Printing, Dyeing & Finishing Machinery & Textile Chemicals Zone”. Mazuoli, Itema Savio would join at “Spinning, Nonwoven & Techtextile Machinery Zone” and Switzerland's Jakob Mueller, Runyuan, Karl Mayer exhibit at “Warp-Knitting, Embroidery & Weaving Machinery Zone”.
The booming response can be further explained by the encouraging export data in different categories in the textile machinery and the related industry. The top export value of knitting machinery reached USD217million, contributing to 28% of the total, followed by auxiliary device and spare parts, printing, dyeing and finishing machinery, chemical fiber machinery, spinning machinery, weaving machinery, non-woven machinery, weaving preparatory machinery. The weaving preparatory machinery sector shows a year-on-year rise of 226 %. The data further proves why ShanghaiTex has received overwhelming support in the 2011 edition.
A Showcase of the Latest Technology by Renowned Exhibitors
ShanghaiTex aims to promote textile trade and technology through its unique exhibition platform. With the goal to further enhance the know-how of the textile industry, the organizers have collaborated with key exhibiting enterprises to hold the fashion parade concurrently onsite.
Exhibitors, such as Germany's H. Stoll – an established German company specializing in producing flat knitting machines for more than 135 years; Hong Kong's Chemtax--the agent of leading European textile machineries brands; Italy's Santoni S.P.A --- the worldwide leader of seamless underwear machineries; Japan's Shima Seiki – one of the world's top manufacturer of computerized flatbed knitting machines, will join hands to present the latest technology and newest materials to demonstrate the development and the achievements of the industry.
Since its debut in 1984, ShanghaiTex's unique national brand with modern management has further strengthened its pioneering role in textile industry. It is expected that the exhibition area will be over 92,000 sqm and more than 1,000 local and overseas exhibitors will participate. To facilitate buyers' sourcing and create business networking opportunity at one place, 5 theme zones will be set up.
Sponsored by Shanghai Textile Holding (Group) Corporation, China Council for the Promotion of International Trade Shanghai Sub-council and China Chamber of International Commerce Shanghai Chamber of Commerce, ShanghaiTex is organized by Shanghai International Exhibition Co Ltd., Shanghai Textile Technology Service & Exhibition Centre and Adsale Exhibition Services Ltd., Shanghai.
Embroidery Machinery Zone to be Added to Shanghaitex 2011
 Having over 26 years of history, the forthcoming 15th international exhibition on textile industry Shanghaitex, 2011) will be staged again at Shanghai New International Expo Centre, Pudong, Shanghai during June 14 – 17, 2011.
Shanghaitex is a biennial event taking place in Shanghai every odd-numbered year. For the coming attraction, the show will occupy 8 exhibition halls, covering several theme zones namely Knitting & Hosiery Machinery, Printing, Dyeing and Finishing Machinery, Textile Chemicals, Spinning, Nonwoven and Techtextile Machinery and Weaving Machinery and Spare Parts & Accessories. This year, Warp-Knitting and Embroidery Machinery Zone will be newly set up in response to the raising support and demand from industry.
The strong confidence of textile machinery makers on ShanghaiTex and the long-term prospects of the textile industry in Asia is evident from the overwhelming response of booth application by exhibitors. The organizers have announcedthat the Knitting Section is almost fully booked by renowned industry players such as Hong Kong's Chemtax Industrial Company Ltd, Sinotech Asia Ltd, Germany's H. Stoll GMBH & Co. KG, Switzerland's Grob Textile AG, Singapore's Falmac Machinery (Tianjin) Ltd, Italy's Santoni S.P.A, L.G.L, BTSR International S.P.A. and Conti Complett S.P.A, Japan's Shima Seiki Mfg. Ltd and other reputed local and abroad companies. For the Dyeing and Finishing Sector, reputed companies including Fong's, Thies, Danfoss, X-rite, Asia Kingdom, Gofront, Starlam, SDL, Zimmer, Schneider, Setex and Siltex etc have either confirmed or reserved their exhibition booths at ShanghaiTex 2011.
The good response from worldwide companies echoes the fact that the textile industry has been recovering in an upward spiral trend. Textile industry has suffered in the previous year due to global financial crisis, but with the support of China Government in past year and the hints of worldwide economic recovery recently, it is observed that the industry is picking up gradually.
According to the figures of China Customs, export of textile products and apparel reached USD70.21 billion in Jan-May 2010, increasing by 19.3% comparing with the same period of last year. Among that, the export amount of textile products and apparel reached USD28.56 billion & USD41.65 billion respectively, representing a 29.7% & 13.1% growth respectively than the same period of last year.
Stanley Chu, Chairman of Adsale Exhibition Services Ltd, Organizer of ShanghaiTex 2011, said, “Customers join the exhibition for its benefit and the business potential that could be captured at the show. Therefore, we endeavor to attract more buyers via extensive promotions in order to build an effective business platform for our customers.”
Being the long-standing exhibition in China, ShanghaiTex is rooted in Shanghai with influence spanning over China since 1984. Benefited from the recovery of textile industry and the surging demand, ShanghaiTex 2011 is expecting an exhibition area of over 92,000 sqm and the participation of 1,000 exhibitors.
Sponsored by Shanghai Textile Holding (Group) Corporation, China Council for the Promotion of International Trade Shanghai Sub-council and China Chamber of International Commerce Shanghai Chamber of Commerce, ShanghaiTex is organized by Shanghai International Exhibition Co Ltd., Shanghai Textile Technology Service & Exhibition Centre and Adsale Exhibition Services Ltd.
ITMA 2011 Expanding to Include
Research & Education Pavilion
ITMA, the world's largest and most established textile machinery exhibition, has placed bigger spotlight on research and development, as well as education and training; a pavilion will be organised for research institutes and higher institutions of learning to showcase their projects, capabilities and programmes. The Research & Education (R&E) pavilion will be a major feature at next year's ITMA exhibition, which will be held at the Fira de Barcelona Gran Vía venue in Barcelona , Spain from 22 to 29 September 2011. It is one of a range of initiatives by the show owner, CEMATEX, to ensure the sustainable development of the textile and garment industry.
According to Jeroen Vits, Secretary General of SYMATEX ( Belgium ) and Chairman of the ITMA 2011 R&E Committee, the key to creating the industry's sustainable development is through research and development, and education and training. He commented, “We believe that businesses must continue to invest in developing innovative processes, products, and manufacturing capabilities. In addition, human capital must be developed to the fullest. There must be more dialogue and cross-fertilisation of ideas between commercial and academic organisations to encourage synergistic collaboration, and to ensure a continuous stream of new ideas and innovations.
“ITMA 2011 will be an excellent platform for exploring strategic partnerships, exchange of ideas, and networking. We hope more organisations will take up this opportunity to showcase or share their expertise and projects, as we will have well over 100,000 exhibitors and visitors converging at our exhibition.”
AUTEX, the Association of Universities for Textiles, which has 32 members from 24 countries, is in support of ITMA's focus. The association's vision is to facilitate co-operation amongst members in high-level textile education and research. Its General Secretary, Prof Paul Kiekens, of AUTEX, commented: “As the voice of the European textile universities, AUTEX promotes and participates in research and development and education projects which bring added value to the textiles industry at the European level. “We see positive synergies with ITMA, which has been held in Europe for six decades. Hence, we believe the exhibition with its focus on the Research and Education sector is an excellent platform for constructive dialogue between universities and industry members and we are very pleased to support it.”
Invitations have been sent to research centres, institutions and associations all around the world to participate in the R&E pavilion. As a result, a number of leading institutions have already responded to the call. Among them are the Institut für Textil- und Verfahrenstechnik Denkendorf (ITV-Denkendorf) and the Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University (ITA), Fraunhofer Institute for Industrial Mathematics ITWM and Cetex Institut für Textil- und Verarbeitungsmaschinen gemeinnützige GmbH from Germany; D.K.T.E. Society's Textile & Engineering Institute from India; and Instituto Tecnológico Textil (AITEX) and Institut D'investigació Tèxtil I Cooperació Industrial de Terrassa-UPC from Spain.
A highlight at the pavilion is a speaker's corner where 20-minute presentation slots are made available to organisations participating in the area. The slots are limited and will be offered on a first-come-first-served basis. “We welcome submissions on themes such as textiles, polymers and process technology. To ensure the quality of the submissions, all presentations and posters are subject to the approval of a technical committee,” said Vits.
Besides research and education, ITMA 2011 will also of course feature exhibits from the entire textile and garment value chain, ranging from textile spinning, web formation, winding and texturing, weaving, knitting and hosiery, embroidery and braiding, finishing, dyestuffs and chemicals, software, logistics, plant operations, recycling, education, garment making and textile processing. The 100,000 sqm net exhibition is expected to attract over 1,400 international exhibiting companies.
Fespa Commits to Full Digital Textile Conference Programme in 2011
FESPA will host the third of its successful Digital Textile Conference events on 24th February, 2011, alongside FESPA Americas ( Orange County Convention Center, Orlando, 24-26 February 2011). Created as a forum in which wide-format and textile printers can learn and garner innovative, strategic ideas from industry experts, FESPA will hold Digital Textile Conferences at each of its key exhibitions in 2011, including FESPA Digital (Hamburg, 24-27 May 2011) and FESPA Asia (Singapore, 26 –28 October 2011).
 Following on from the success of the first two FESPA Digital Textile Conferences, the events will once again be chaired by John Scrimshaw, textile expert and editor of Digital Textile and International Dyer. As in previous years, each conference will feature a mix of speakers including leading print specialists, digital textile printing authorities, textile printers and end-users of digitally-printed textiles, covering commercial and technical topics, and examining trends and opportunities in the sector.
At the FESPA Americas Digital Textile Conference, in February 2011, Dr. John Provost, Technical Editor of Digital Textile magazine and a global consultant with expertise in textile ink formulation; Dr Mike Fralix, President and CEO of TC2; Kevin Kelly, Blue Heron Industries Inc; and Tim Greene of InfoTrends, will discuss new market research findings.
John Scrimshaw comments, “The wide-format market is evolving rapidly and the use of textile as a substrate, as opposed to vinyl, is increasingly common in the flexible, soft-signage sector. Additionally, there has been a move towards direct digital printing in the garment decoration market. With so many changes occurring, and at such speed, the FESPA Digital Textile Conferences are the perfect opportunity for printers to confront these changes and discuss the questions they raise for their industry.”
FESPA's commitment to an international series of Digital Textile Conferences in 2011 reflects market demand. FESPA's 2010 World Wide Survey revealed that, for 47% of companies, the demand for wide-format textile printing within their business is growing, along with banner and domestic interior applications, which will provide significant opportunities for innovation in the wide format printing community.
“The FESPA Digital Textile Conferences are an excellent opportunity for printers to voice their opinions on their industry, and the interest we are receiving for our Americas event suggests that the conference will be extremely well attended,” says Frazer Chesterman, Managing Director, FESPA.
“At FESPA Americas, visitors will find the Digital Textile Conference to be the ideal place in which to gain the skills, and learn about the technologies which can make a difference to their business. Whether they want to explore the opportunities of printing onto textile substrates, or already do so, the Conference will equip them with the knowledge to make them a success in textile print, be that for commercial and domestic interiors, flags and banners or soft signage,” Frazer concludes.
Since the first FESPA Digital Textile Conference held at FESPA Digital in Geneva, Switzerland in 2008, FESPA has continued to demonstrate its dedication to the textile and garment printing sector, launching the first FESPA Fabric “show within a show”, at FESPA 2010. Following the success of that event which attracted 10,772 visitors, FESPA Fabric (24-26 May 2011) will run again, alongside the Digital Textile Conference, at FESPA Digital 2011 in Hamburg , Germany.
Itma adds on New Section on "Fibres and Yarns" in 2011 Edition
As part of its ongoing efforts to serve the changing needs of global players, ITMA will feature a brand new section on fibres and yarns for its 2011 edition which will be held from 22 to 29 September, 2011 at Fira de Barcelona Gran Vía, Spain.
 The new fibres and yarns section of the exhibition will feature natural, man-made and technical fibres, as well as natural, synthetic and technical yarns. With the new inclusion ITMA 2011 exhibits will now be classified into 18 separate sections, including spinning, winding and texturing, non-wovens production, weaving, knitting and hosiery, garment making and textile processing, embroidery and braiding, dyeing, printing and finishing, dyestuffs and chemicals, testing, recycling, logistics, software and research and education. “The expanded product index will be a boon to textile and garment makers and manufacturers and profession-als from other industrial sectors” said ITMA show owner, CEMATEX, the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers.
Stephen R. Combes, President of CEMATEX, stated: “With the business environment becoming more competitive and complex, buyers now prefer platforms that offer innovative, one-stop solutions for their total sourcing requirements. Many of our visitors are leading manufacturers who are constantly exploring options to improve their productivity and to respond more quickly to customer demands. Some of their solutions include integrating the upstream and downstream processes, as well as adding value to their product and service offers”. “Similarly, as an established industry exhibition, ITMA is also constantly looking at ways to be more customer-focused. In fact, over the last few months, we have received several requests from leading fibre manufacturers as well as from visitors to our shows asking us to include fibres and yarns in our product index.
According to the Oerlikon Textile Report 'The Fiber Year', global fibre consumption rose 4.2 per cent to 70.5 million tonnes in 2009. Man-made fibres increased 4 per cent to 44.1 million tonnes and natural fibres advanced 4.5 per cent to 26.4 million tonnes. The Japan Chemical Fibres Association (JCFA) predicts that the world market demand for fibres will keep on increasing. Its recently released 2009 market survey revealed that chemical fibre consumption is expected to reach 53.95 million tonnes by 2015. This represents a 24 per cent increase from the output level of 43.51 million tonnes registered in 2008. Addressing this upward trend in global fibre consumption, we feel that it is very apt, as part of our 60th anniversary, to include this new chapter,” Combes said.
Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan Offer New Opportunities for Italian Machinery
In mid-October, an Italian delegation of textile machinery manufacturers visited Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan. This institutional mission, organized by ACIMIT (the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers) and by the Italian Institute for Foreign Trade, had planned a series of institutional and business meetings in Ashgabat, the capital of Turkmenistan, and Tashkent, in Uzbekistan, where a technology seminar were also held, followed by bilateral meetings.
 “In the wake of the crisis which has weighed down on us the past few years, the textile machinery sector is looking for a new geographical balance” stated Sandro Salmoiraghi, President of ACIMIT, who is heading the delegation. “China, India, Turkey and Brazil are the countries with the greatest capacity to absorb textile machinery production in the future. However, we need to seek out new business opportunities in those markets where textile manufacturers from the major manufacturing countries are now heading.”
Uzbekistan has an ancient tradition of the working with raw materials, and it is the world's sixth largest cotton producer. In recent years, it has initiated a profound restructuring of its textile sector for the on-site transformation of the raw material, building industrial complexes, thanks in part to foreign investments. Italian exports of textile machinery to Uzbekistan in 2009 amounted to 4.2 million euros.
Turkmenistan, for its part, is taking steps towards enabling its textile industry to compete in international markets, and is looking for partnerships with major global suppliers of textile technology. This is attested by the fact that in 2009, in spite of the economic crisis, Italian exports of textile machinery to Turkmenistan reached 36 million euros, compared to around 2 million euros the previous year, thus becoming the sixth most important market for Italian machinery manufacturers in this sector.
“Emerging at a global level in the textile industry” continues Salmoiraghi “requires first and foremost an updating of technology for competing with countries whose technology level is already at a more advanced state. The aim of this institutional mission is to create a favourable context for partnership between our industry and that of the two countries visited.” “This will be achieved by presenting our technology and products to local entrepreneurs, as well as by establishing contacts with local governmental institutions, such as the Minister for the Textile Industry in Turkmenistan, Mrs. Aynabat Babayeva, and other organisms who still bear a large influence in disseminating and deciding industry strategies.”
Part of this effort included the participation of Italy's delegation at the 2nd Investment Forum in Turkmenistan, where ACIMIT's President was invited among the international speakers. The following Italian companies are taking part in this institutional mission: Fadis, Marzoli, Plm Impianti, Reggiani, Salmoiraghi, Savio, Texera.
Addressing Macro-economic Imbalances Through Co-operation
 Archival laces and embroideries as well as new fabric and fibre technologies generated excitement at recent Interfilière in Paris. While the show was noticeably smaller with fewer exhibitors and attendees, traffic was steady at those knitters known for quality and innovation. The Eurovet organization has not released attendance figures, but suppliers said they were pleasantly surprised by the attendance and were cautiously optimistic with business looking up for the third quarter.
Lace and embroidery
The General Forum for intimates was dominated by lace and embroidery, as Interfilière celebrated the International Lace and Fashion Centre recently opened in Calais. An inspiring archival display featured intimate apparel prototypes developed in collaborations between designers and the archives from Noyon Dentelle, Piave Maitex, Oskar Hammerle and Bischoff Textiles.
Swimwear trends were highly decorative and inspired by couture techniques. Sheers and skin-thin fabrics for draping contrasted with knitted satins, sculptural jacquards, terries, velours and dévorés. The knitters have mastered new developments in fine-gauge knitting, as well as in treatments such as inkjet and digital printing, glossy foil prints, flocking and burn-outs. The interpretation of archival and couture references into today’s highly technical knitted fabrics resulted in fabrics that are not only beautiful but perform to the standards required by today’s lingerie and swimwear manufacturers.
Fine gauge knits
Fine-gauge knits are the future, according to Dr. Martin Hermann, Managing Director at Willy Hermann. The company pioneered fine-gauge knitting in 2000 with 44 gg—now the volume category—and can knit as fine as 68 gg. These Superfine fabrics are ideal for clean-cut and sew-free technologies. Second-skin fabrics knit at 44 gg are standard at Maglificio Ripa, where they make up 50 -60% of production. These include fabrics with Xtra Life LYCRA® for beachwear as well as delicious blends of natural and cellulosic fibres—MicroModal®, cashmere, silk, bamboo and milk fibre—for intimates and loungewear.
Brugnoli’s “Invisible” line of nylon blends with high elasthane content go as light as 55 gsm, with heavier versions in development using Xtra Life LYCRA® for swimwear. Brugnoli also featured a range of organic cottons and blends of natural and cellulosic fibres including MicroModal®, wool and cashmere for cozy loungewear.
Huber Tricot’s line of fine-gauge “Smooth Skin” jerseys included 50gg fabrics as well as a 65 gsm mercerized cotton jersey knit at 44 gg. Their new “Brightex” treatment utilises long-staple yarns and special finishing to impart soft lustre and pilling resistance. The company is a member of the Organic Exchange and has developed knits in organic and natural-colour cotton. Other offerings included fine-gauge blends of bamboo, wool or cotton with silk or even cashmere.
Eurojersey has also been at the forefront of light weight stretch knits with their warp-knit Sensitive® range, and this season offered a semi-sheer version called Sensitive® Touch that is perfect for intimate apparel. The new weight was teamed with more compact Sensitive® fabrics in “shape and drape” swimwear by designer Karla Colletto, featured in the Beach Innovation Forum.
Intimates
Tulles, meshes and power nets were also in demand for intimates. Penn Asia introduced sheer, meshy stretch laces knit on Karl Mayer’s new “Cliptronic” machine, as well as cotton-blend meshes with and without stretch. Andre Avio’s silk tulles were exquisite, as was their organic cotton net at 40 gsm and knitted cotton charmeuse at 118 gsm.
Thinner and lighter than ever, spacer fabrics such as Dogi’s “Perfect Bra” weft-knit range have become increasingly important for intimate apparel as they offer a non-yellowing option to PU foam for bra cups. Without the need for a fabric covering, spacers also offered a number of fashion options, including jacquard, mesh, sheer/opaque and reversible constructions as seen at Liebaert and Mackent.
Fabrics for shapewear were focused on comfort and a smooth appearance, with seamless knitting and zoned power stretch important for this classification. Penn Elastic’s “Dreamshape” offered “weightless power” through engineered shaping and supermicro yarns; the company is partnering with a Moroccan manufacturer to offer full package options to their customers. At Dogi, new fabrics in their “Winn” wellness collection promised firming or slimming benefits through specialty yarns from Nurel. Noyon Dentelle’s “Glam’Panties” laces were engineered to create body-shaping briefs with a single seam.
Enhanced performance
Swimwear performance was enhanced by new fibres and finishings. Carvico’s “Revolutional” range of light, compact warp knits was offered with Schoeller’s “Cold Black” technology, preventing absorption of heat from the sun. Carvico’s new “Amazzonia” range combined eco-friendly Biophyl™ (made from DuPont Sorona®) and Dow XLA™. Weft-knitter Jersey Lomellina presented new developments with Invista’s T-400® stretch fibre. At Talana Virgillo a patented nano-process imparted the water-repellent qualities of the lotus to knits for stay-dry swimwear.
Piave Maitex introduced flocking and burn-out technologies developed especially for swimwear, collaborating with designer Anna Maria LaBianca to create lace-inspired patterns. The company’s new base cloth utilises a polyester yarn with a polyamide core and nano-TiO2, knit with Xtra Life LYCRA®. The fabric provides UV protection and excellent coverage, with no lining required.
Velvets, towelings, laces and dévorés were featured for luxurious loungewear and “evening” beachwear. These included MicroModal® toweling at Handel & Diller, burn-out cotton lace effect at Natex, and a range of velours at Piave Maitex.
Sustainable fibres
The fibre companies showing at the fair continued their efforts toward sustainability, including NILIT’s introduction of their Eco-Care post-industrial recycled nylon, which incorporates 10% recycled Colorwise deep-dye nylon for improved dyeability. Hyosung’s Mipan Regen nylon was featured in the launch of Eco-Panda’s swimwear line in China, and their eco-friendly Creora H550 has found favour in knits blended with natural fibres or polypropylene that require a lower temperature for heat-setting.
Lenzing featured their ProModal® blend of Modal/Tencel, which has found commercial success at Abercrombie & Fitch in loungewear. Their MicroModal® AIR in very fine counts was shown in knits by Handel & Diller. Lenzing’s newest concept for knits is an eco-blend of Tencel® LF with organic cotton.
Invista’s prototype intimate apparel garments using LYCRA® 2.0 garment technology in partnership with Willy Hermann’s Superfine fabrics were a vision of the future of intimate apparel and other bodywear. Cacique has launched the first commercial LYCRA® 2.0 garment, the Back-Smoother bra; and fashion legwear is in the works, using clean-cut Sensitive® fabrics from Eurojersey.
Asahi from Japan has brought to market an adhesive elasthane, ROICA SF for clean-cut fabric, said to prevent curling and laddering on both warp and weft knits. Asahi also offered a deep dyeable elasthane, compatible with nylon or polyester, as well as a new bonding tape from internally produced polymer providing a soft hand-feel and excellent stretch and recovery.
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